Who's The Real Fat Pasha?

The air is damp and it’s drizzling as I sit down on the barely moist bench at Fat Pasha’s back patio. The Dupont Street restaurant – the third on the midtown strip launched by chef and co-owner Anthony Rose – has been open for just about two months. Reviews have been resoundingly positive despite catering to a nitpicky local clientele. Fat Pasha serves Rose’s twist on Middle Eastern food, with an added pinch of personality, and several dashes of schmaltz.

The best chopped liver I've ever had – drizzled tableside with schmaltz!!!

The 41-year old Toronto-born chef sits across from me in a jean shirt with the sleeves rolled up. His demeanor is more placid that usual. He’s getting over the stomach flu and a broken heart. His love for his restaurant, his son, his employees, his eats and his customers, is however evident.

It’s 8pm on a Saturday night and the restaurant is getting slammed. Unexpected rain has limited their patio seating to less than 50 per cent capacity (their full awning is being installed on July 28th) and some of the customers are cranky. Those with a more laissez faire attitude are enjoying everything from the food to the al-fresco atmosphere. He remains engaged in our conversation while somehow quality checking with staff and complimenting neighboring tables on their meal choices “You’re never going to please them all,” Rose concedes. “But we do our best and we do what we love and that’s what’s most important.”

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Seared albacore tuna w/ preserved lemon and salsa verde

Sensational schmaltz fried rice

Ice cream sandwich for dessert w/ caramelized matzah and Manischewitz jelly

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